Welcome to North Macedonia!
We’ve been here for three weeks now and it’s starting to feel like home. It’s impossible to put into one word the experience of moving somewhere completely new, so I thought I’d give some of my first impressions of this fascinating country we are learning to call home:
Kindness is everywhere
If I look lost, confused, or annoyed at my children the locals will stop and ask (in Macedonian) if I need help. When I say I don’t speak Macedonian, they ask again in English. An example: I was walking down the street from our church building with a sick, jet-lagged toddler who had had enough. He threw himself on the dirty sidewalk, ripped off his shoes, and laid down in despair. He wasn’t the only one who felt like throwing in the towel… I squatted down next to him in my dress and heels and questioned, for a moment, why we traveled with children.
We weren’t there for even two minutes when a kind woman walked over and started speaking to me. I stood up and apologized for not speaking Macedonian. She responded, “Are you okay? Do you need help?” I wanted to cry–she couldn’t really help me in that moment, but her kindness gave me the strength to keep going.
Locals think I’m local
Perhaps this doesn’t seem like a big deal, but coming from China, it still surprises me when people start talking to me in Macedonian. Just the other day I took the boys to the little corner store where we get ice cream. As they were eating it, a woman came up to me and started talking. Now, usually I can find a good moment to apologize for not understanding, but for some reason I just could not find a good time to interrupt her. She kept going on and on and never asked any questions so I just nodded my head. I’m 10% sure she was telling me that I shouldn’t give my boys ice cream at this time of year because the cold will make their throats hurt. I said goodbye (something I do know how to say) and she went on her way.
Do you think she knew?…
The produce is to die for
I don’t know if I will ever be able to eat a tomato or red pepper outside of NM ever again! They are perfectly sweet and packed with flavor. And the cucumbers! Yes, the cucumbers! Jarek doesn’t usually like the vegetable, but he gobbles them up with the rest of us here.
Ajvar (or Ајвар) is life-changing
What is ajvar, you ask? The spread that puts all other spreads to shame. Made from sweet red peppers and eggplant, this spread can improve most foods. My favorite lunch right now is fresh bread with ajvar and sheep cheese. I’m drooling as I write this.
In one of T’s tantrums, he broke a shelf in the fridge, causing the large glass jar of ajvar to shatter all over the floor. We were so sad to see so much heavenly flavor be mopped up with paper towels and rags. The next day, our nanny brought us a huge jar of homemade ajvar from her very own stash! As if we didn’t love her already, that sealed the deal!
Which brings me to…
I’d be lost without our nanny
On our first full day in the country, Sofija took me to the grocery store, the butcher, and the fish shop. She showed me where I could find a pharmacy, an ATM, and a park for the boys. She is teaching me Macedonian and is patient with how slow I’m learning. If there is something I don’t understand, I can ask her. She is an angel and I am so grateful she is in my life!
Walking outside can be frightening
Three things make going for a walk with kids a stressful activity:
- If there are sidewalks, they are for parking your car.
- Drivers here don’t pay attention and assume everyone else will be careful.
- The roads are tiny and there isn’t room for all the parked cars, driving cars, and people.
Needless to say, everytime we walk somewhere, T is strapped into his stroller (even though it’s not easy taking a stroller around, either).
The country is mostly beautiful
I didn’t expect to be surrounded by mountains and it makes this Colorado girl so happy! The sunsets are stunning with pink clouds and orange skies almost every night so far. There are grapes, pomegranates, walnuts, and other foods growing all through our neighborhood. People take beautiful care of their gardens so it’s lovely walking around in the evenings and seeing the bright flowers and lush trees.
At the same time, there is trash and graffiti everywhere. You have to be careful where you step so you don’t step in animal poop. At the park the other day, I looked down to find my shoe decorated in dog doodoo. I cleaned it off my shoe and looked around to find it so I could avoid stepping in it again. Well, the joke was on me because the poop was right next to me, but I didn’t realize it until I had stepped in it again!
I think we will really love it here
I have to admit, it has been an extremely trying few weeks. I had moments where I wondered if I ever wanted to do this again. T was sick when we moved, and A and I got sick less than two weeks after arriving. Both boys, but especially T, suffered some intense culture shock and confusion, especially since we didn’t have their toys, books, or our jeep. BUT just two days ago we got a small shipment of some toys and kitchen items, and it has totally changed the boys’ attitude about our home. T has stopped trying to destroy everything in his path, and A has stopped screaming so much. We are all healthy now so we can get out and enjoy this amazing country! There are kind people everywhere, the food is delicious, our home is beautiful, and there are lots of fun things we can see and do.
“I think I’m gonna like it here!”