Climbing the Dragon’s Back

Longji titian—the “dragon’s spine rice terraces”—are one of the most impressive sights we ever found in China.

Watchman on the tower

The idea of the diaolou, some 1,800 of which are still standing, has been around for centuries, but most were built during the 1920s and 1930s. At that time, China was full of bandits and warlords, so many overseas Chinese sent money home to build fortresses for their families. The diaolou are built to withstand assault; with barred gates, iron shutters, and many stories of stone, they are imposing structures.

Where Red Meets White: A Chinese Wedding in 2020

Seven years ago Jarek and I were just married and living in Xi’an China as exchange students. One evening as we sat studying in our cramped, dusty apartment, we heard a knock at our door. We opened it to see a bright-eyed Chinese girl with beautiful high cheekbones and a contagious smile. “Hello! My name…

To the Roof of the World

After lunch, we set out for the first park of our trek. The trail is a loop around the tallest of three peaks, Chenresig (6032 m or 19,790 ft). The two other peaks, Jampelyang and Chane Dorje, both top out at 5958 m (19,547). Just one would be breathtaking, but all three…

Cherries and the Qiang

The buildings are unique, unlike anything else in China I’ve seen. The village is several thousand years old, but I believe that it was heavily damaged in the Wenchuan earthquake in 2008, and has been almost entirely reconstructed.